
This page is intended to capture my thoughts just after the trip, and is
composed chiefly of my observations and a little research.
Like Tanzania, we found the people of Zambia to be very likeable. In both countries, poverty is rampant, but Zambia doesn't have the tourist infrastructure and famous parks like Tanzania, so it is poorer.
Most locals subsist off the land, fishing in the rivers (Luangwa River, on the left), farming, hunting small game, and in the Luangwa Area, tourism is a big boost.
Although a calm and docile day, the fisherman on the left is always in a bit of
danger. Hippos sometimes work in conjunction with crocodiles, tipping over
boats, and the fisherman becoming victims of nearby crocodiles. This photo
was taken in mid-year, and there had already been 3 deaths in the area.
Elephants cause problems, too. Earlier this year, a local medicine woman was trampled beyond recognition by an angry elephant.
Elephants in this area are generally angry by default. Poaching has reduced their numbers by two thirds in the last 30 years, and the ones that remain wisely regard humans as a threat. Poaching has also wiped out rhinos completely in Zambia, and they've had to re-introduce them from South Africa.
Alternative forms of employment are desperately needed to lure locals away from poaching. Given viable alternatives, poachers will generally take a normal job. Poaching is risky as well, if caught- they face severe penalties.
One
of the park's rangers that we met used to be a poacher himself, so it was
heartening to see him gainfully employed protecting the very animals he once
endangered.
I've no idea of the history of the fellow on the right- he was our protector on
a walking safari we took in South Luangwa National Park. He looked tough,
which was reassuring. He carefully scanned our path for signs of danger.
The gun was only for a last resort- his main job was to avoid trouble at nearly
all costs. If an animal is killed, he has a lot to answer for why we ended
up in danger in the first place. His skill made for an uneventful
(danger-wise) walking safari.
All along the main road from Mfuwe to the park, mud-walled, thatch-roofed huts dotted the roadside. Even though they have dirt floors, the owners would dress up in spotless, starched white dress shirts. The floors are tamped hard to keep dust to a minimum. However, this underscores how poor the people are. Along the roadside in Tanzania, the people tended to have cinder block homes, not mud huts.
Many
of the people living along this road work for
Tribal Textiles-
a local manufacturer of decorative fabric for home furnishings- tablecloths,
pillow covers, bed spreads, etc... Many locals are gainfully employed, and
Tribal Textiles sells their goods all over Zambia, and all around the world.
Check out their website and any purchase will go to a good cause- local
employment and fewer poachers!
We visited this area because my brother-in-law Larry is an archaeologist, and his wife, Mary, is a specialized publisher. They visit this area every year on an ongoing archaeological dig, and spend a lot of time working with the locals. (More details about the dig are in the Archaeology section.)
Visiting Larry & Mary provided some local insight into the people. For
instance, Pioneer Camp, where we stayed, used locals to do our laundry by hand.
A washing machine- first off, being impractical here- would put several locals
out of work. Labor is cheap here- a few dollars go a long way. It is
a
ctually
cheaper to pay locals- thus employing them- than to own a washing machine for
the lodge.
The
remaining pictures were provided by Mary (including the two on either side of
this text)- I will have to rely on her for commentary.



